Two Centuries of
Quality & Service
All over the world, Savile Row stands for the very best in men's tailoring and so it is fitting that Gieves & Hawkes should be 'No 1 Savile Row': a remarkable address.
The company was formed from two famous businesses: Gieves, founded in 1785 and Hawkes, founded in 1771. Each welcomed a passing parade of famous customers whose names would fill a book. The magnificent full dress occasions of British State Ceremonial have been embellished and enriched by our craftsmen's skills, and overseas monarchs and leaders have looked upon Gieves & Hawkes to meet their own exacting requirements.
Today Gieves & Hawkes, as the purveyor of quintessential English style, dresses individuals who are interested in the rules and references of tradition but who desire to present these in a visually exciting and contemporary way: in their own way. Confident in what they wear, they appreciate luxury and are most interested, ultimately, in style. They have a sense of occasion and dress accordingly. Gieves & Hawkes presents these men with modern classics - simultaneously modern and classic - across their wardrobe, from formal evening wear to suiting and through to casual wear.
Three Royal Warrants
Internationally recognised marks of excellence, Gieves & Hawkes' first Royal Warrant was granted in the reign of King George III in 1809.
The company has held Royal Warrants ever since, an unbroken record of service to successive Monarchs and members of their families.
Gieves & Hawkes is proud to currently hold Royal Warrants of Appointment to HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales.
The Army & The Navy
It was primarily to meet the tailoring needs of the British Army and Navy that the then two separate companies were founded, Hawkes to service the former, Gieves based firstly in Portsmouth to service the latter.
Early customers of note - who sought the company's expertise in tailoring the intricate uniforms and sumptuous ceremonial dress of the 18th century - today rank amongst some of history's most famous and heroic figures: Admiral Lord Nelson and The Duke of Wellington.
Truly Essential Kit
At the start of the 19th century, the company supplied much of the British Army with its Shako Helmet head-dress, and later developed and patented the Kitchener and Wolseley solar helmets together with Civil Service versions. These became essential kit for all those who served and travelled in hot climates.
In the middle of the same century, the company equipped David Livingstone and Henry Morton Stanley for their expeditions in central Africa.
Serving the Services
The company has always offered exceptional levels of service to its customers.
An early example was the despatch of a steam yacht to the Black Sea in 1854. The vessel, equipped with every amenity, including tailors and other resources, sailed with the British Fleet during the Crimean War, ensuring that the officers were impeccably attired whilst on their campaign.
Another example was the development of the Gieves Sea Chest, approved by the Admiralty in the middle of the 19th century. Developed and made by the company these large and solid chests were fitted out with all the necessities for a naval cadet or officer, to contain clothing, shaving bowl with mirror, clasps for telescope and dirk, and candle escutcheon.
An original chest, displayed at No 1 Savile Row, stands as a reminder of these splendid receptacles which remained in great demand, with modifications, until the 1930's.
The First Mail Order
Early in the 20th century, the first catalogues of the company's goods and services were published. Special editions for customers in the Navy, Army or Civil Service serving in distant outposts of the Empire featured detailed listings of goods and services with illustrations and fabric swatches.
Later versions contained a unique order code to facilitate ease of ordering when communications relied on telegraphic messages via "Eastern Telegraph" and an address of "Uniforms Portsmouth".
A Contemporary mail order service is continued today via our online store.
War Service
Prior to World War I, Gieves developed and patented the first inflatable Life Saving Waistcoat.
This ingenious device saved the lives of countless members of the Armed Forces and civilians. Noel Coward referred to the unique merits of the waistcoat, while an original version, which saved the life of the Lord Montague of that time, is now on display in the Beaulieu Museum, Hampshire.
During World War II the Company was approached by the secret services to develop compass buttons, cavity buttons (concealing explosives, poison pellets and maps printed on silk) and Gili saws (serrated wire on a ring pull concealed in a cap badge) for British espionage agents on active service in Germany and occupied France.
No 1 Savile Row
The company's headquarters and international flagship store, at No 1 Savile Row, was built by Lord Burlingham in 1732 and originally occupied by the Farifax family as their town house. In 1870 ownership passed to the Royal Geographical Society, who added the magnificent Map Room and galleried library which remain a focal point of the fine interior.
It was fitting that the company should come to occupy this address in 1912, and add weight to the then growing international reputation which the street enjoyed as the centre for the finest craft tailoring.
Bespoke
Handcraft tailoring - at first in uniforms and then in civilian clothing - lies at the very heart of the Gieves & Hawkes business.
Today, from its base at No. 1 Savile Row, the epicentre of English tailoring, Gieves & Hawkes have seamlessly combined the traditional role of formal uniform and costume maker with innovation in hand cutting and tailoring.
Gieves & Hawkes' bespoke tailoring blends the traditional relationship between cutter and client with a modern approach to fabric technology and an acute awareness of contemporary trends.
The evolution of a bespoke garment begins with a consultation with the master cutter and draws on the diverse skills of the supporting master tailors, finishers and pressers. Several fittings are likely to be necessary, especially for a first garment. The end result is a unique, perfectly fitting, utterly elegant article of clothing - the ultimate in truly personalised luxury.
Ready to Wear
In 1922, in response to the changing lives and subsequent demands of our customers, the first limited collection of ready to wear garments was introduced to supplement the then dominant bespoke trade.
This innovation - the company was the first Savile Row company to introduce ready to wear clothing - provided the company with a platform to prosper in the 20th Century with stores opening throughout the UK and around the world.
Today, the Gieves & Hawkes collection represents the epitome of English style, a modern classic, elegant range animated by subtle details.
The 21st Century
The start of the 21st century saw Gieves & Hawkes presenting its ready to wear collection alongside other international brands in Paris.
At the same time a Personal Tailoring Service was also launched, available in all stores, as a bridge between bespoke and ready to wear. Taking the finest ready to wear procedures and combining them with the flexibility of creating a unique tailored garment - individual and personalised.
While No 1 Savile Row remains the international flagship site, it now heads a premium retail network in the United Kingdom. The distribution of Gieves & Hawkes also continues to expand internationally with over 75 stores and concessions worldwide.
Closing Notes
Gieves & Hawkes take inspiration from a rich archive and history while also drawing on over two centuries of craftsmanship and innovation. We continue to represent quality, excellence, innovation and service of the highest degree.
The finest fabrics, the highest quality design and production, knowledgeable consultants and superlative service: this is what Gieves & Hawkes stands for, what we are known for and why Gieves & Hawkes appeals across the generations, as we have for well over 200 years.
