AUTUMN / WINTER 2016
DRESS FOR THE SEASON
The steady transition from the balmy warmth of late Summer to the refreshing crispness of Autumn is arguably the single most exciting time of the year for luxury menswear.
It is, after all, at the start of the Autumn Winter Collection when you can start to discover something new, rediscover the pleasure of experimenting with different layers and seek the comfort of warming, beguilingly soft tailoring and knitwear once more. Particularly exciting for me personally, is the directional, elegant sensibility that underpins the new Gieves & Hawkes Autumn Winter 2016 collection. Not least because I’ve long preached that warm, earthy tones are the most elegant, wearable and beguiling colours to be found in modern tailored menswear.
It seems moreover that this season the house agrees with me. Perfectly balanced as the collection is between contemporary tailoring and modern, design-driven casualwear, Autumn Winter 2016 is particularly rich and earthy in terms of aesthetic, with subtle textures, clean cuts and sumptuously soft fabrics coming to the fore. Naturally, timeless shades of navy, charcoal and slate grey underpin the collection and form a practical base for both formalwear (with mottled navy and charcoal suits flannel working as winter wardrobe staples) and more casual pieces, whether a pair of inky blue cotton chinos paired with an extrafine merino charcoal rollneck or else a sumptuously soft RAF blue merino V-neck (Available in stores). These foundational pieces aside, it is in the pops of deep burned orange and in the elegant shades of copper, taupe and chocolate where the collection really centres itself.
You might also consider experimenting with subtle, tonal checks this autumn. Patterns have become increasingly textural and graphic in British menswear over the past few seasons, and Gieves & Hawkes has kept pace perfectly. Now for the coming months, dynamic tailored overcoats in earthy checked fabrics present a sharp, modern silhouette, destined to be worn with timeless cream trousers and a chunky cable-knit scarfs in burned-orange, navy and cream cashmere. Shirting has softened for the autumn season and Gieves & Hawkes are offering a number of exquisite brushed flannel casual shirts, which feel similarly contemporary and lend further texture to a casual look. Try this slate grey fine herringbone shirt, or else a luxurious powder blue cotton and cashmere flannel shirt for an indulgent wardrobe update.
Softness of texture and silhouette are key to the collection, as is its warm, earthy colour palette and the versatility of its tailored pieces - many of which work with casual knits and outerwear as naturally as they do with formal shirts and ties. Whether an immaculate handmade flannel suit, sumptuous semi-formal bomber jacket, some chunky knitwear or a pair of luxurious sneakers, Gieves & Hawkes is presenting a sophisticated vision for the wardrobe of the contemporary man this season, and I for one, am hooked.
- Aleks Cvetkovic, Online Editor The Rake Magazine