Tales of the Sea: Autumn / Winter 2018 Collection
The new collection takes inspiration from our rich naval heritage in new and intriguing ways.
For Autumn / Winter 2018 Gieves & Hawkes takes to the sea, reimaging its rich, naval heritage in a wardrobe inspired by the Golden Age of British exploration. Mythical motifs and refined, masculine contours inform the season’s style, resulting in a ready to wear collection of timeless, maritime elegance and modern practicality.
Guided by creative director, John Harrison, the Autumn / Winter 2018 collection moves away from the landed, sporting themes of the summer towards intrepid notions of a romantic naval past.
The season draws on Gieves & Hawkes’ historic and unique connection to the sea, employing a colour palette of lavishly dark hues, and contrasting bold silhouettes with softer textures. Ropes, knots and Victorian sea creatures form the basis of the collection’s more playful nautical imagery, balanced with classic checks and plaids.
At the centre of the collection sits the long-lost ‘Crown Ship 1771’ emblem, gifted to the house by the Royal Navy and newly redesigned for the season. The graphic features subtly throughout the wardrobe; at some points resting quietly in the pinstripes of a dark navy bomber jacket, at others more boldly woven into a wool scarf and set in warm ginger.
As always, the collection is defined by our distinctive sartorial style. Formal wear is expressed in velvet and silk taffeta, with deep sartorial midnight blues and English navy.
The season’s evening jackets are a prominent display of its thoroughly modern design, with jetted pockets and shawl lapels intertwined with strong, Victorian octopus motifs. Notable too is the G&H monogram, knotted and roped into English-woven silk jacquard and offset by a colourful display of cephalopods.
Suits feature a longer line through the body and have been designed with square notched lapels wide enough to take full repeats of checked fabrics and sharp pocket flaps, proffering a look vaguely reminiscent of traditional navy dress. Alongside these, a classic, single-breasted pinstripe suit has been updated with nautical-themed ropes and knots, and cut in the signature house style.
Weekend wear reflects the more casual practicality of the seafront, championing the warmth and luxury of fine gauze knits, merino wool and cashmere. Soft cream Guernsey jumpers and rich oxblood jerseys are complemented by the classic Gieves & Hawkes peacoat – offered this season in navy and cream shearling with a revere collar, and in lambswool melton with a tonal check.
In the autumn of 1771, Thomas Hawkes set up his own business, supplying tailoring to naval officer, beginning a long, joint heritage of naval and sartorial excellence that continues to this day. AW18 sees the return of No 1 Savile Row to its nautical beginnings, with Harrison's first collection as creative director firmly rooted in the Gieves and Hawkes archives. Informed by the past but underlined by an air of discreet British modernity, the season's wardrobe carries its own contemporary identity, with a practical elegance for the modern, international man.