Bath Rugby captain Matt Garvey tells Josh Sims why having a made-to-measure suit inspires off-pitch confidence in players
Bath Rugby captain Matt Garvey tells Josh Sims why having a made-to-measure suit inspires off-pitch confidence in players
Teo van den Broeke recounts the long history and modern incarnation of the classic peacoat
Characterised by a double-breasted front, spread lapels, a short body that finishes just below the seat and oversized buttons imprinted with the image of an anchor (in a nod to the style’s sea-faring heritage), peacoats as we know them today have changed very little since they were first introduced some two centuries ago.
It was in the early 1800s that the Dutch Royal Navy first started issuing its sailors with pijjakkers, coats made from pij, a heavy, navy-blue wool twill known for its coarseness and insulating properties. These early peacoats were weighty, unyielding and entirely focused on function.
Though the Dutch invented the style, it was the British that transformed the peacoat from a little-known military garment into the civilian-wardrobe staple it is today. By the early 20th century the incredibly durable pea coat, manufactured from sturdy Melton wool, was standard wear for petty officers in the British Royal Navy. Unsurprisingly, this practical garment made a splash across the pond, too, and the US Navy began issuing its junior officers with peacoats (or reefers).
What was it about the style of the coat – with its cinched waist, natty lapels, vented back and heavily styled buttons – that made it so suitable for use in the inclement, demanding conditions of life on deck? The answer lies precisely in these stylistic virtues. Peacoats were designed to sit close to the body in order to insulate their wearers against the wind. The double-breasted front provided an extra level of protection and the vent at the back, combined with the short cut of the body, allowed sailors to move freely around the deck and to climb rigging with ease.
It’s this advantageous combination of heritage, function and style that has secured the pea coat’s place in both the annals of sartorial history and the future of menswear.
Peacoats are also extraordinarily easy to wear. Thrown over a classic suit and tie combination or worn at the weekend with a cashmere roll neck and jeans, the coat has a universal appeal, both masculine and understated. The peacoat is at the core of Gieves & Hawkes’ Autumn/Winter 2017 collection, which is particularly appropriate given the Savile Row marque’s long affiliation with the British military. Cut close and short in the body, the Gieves & Hawkes peacoat is made from a soft yet weighty wool and cashmere Melton, and is just the thing to see you through many winters to come.
Aleks Cvetkovic meets Davide Taub, head cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, and discovers that bespoke tailoring is about fresh thinking as much as tradition
Whether you're familiar with the tailor's art or not, it's impossible to deny there's something astounding about bespoke tailoring. The process of transforming a length of woolen cloth into a form-fitting, handmade suit is a fascinating and closely-guarded métier.
Although known as a prominent ready-to-wear fashion house, Gieves & Hawkes also has a long and prestigious history as a bespoke tailor. In fact the workroom at No 1 Savile Row is one of the oldest in the world, with dozens of bespoke tailors beavering away under the guiding hand of head cutter Davide Taub.
Taub is responsible for overseeing all the bespoke orders that the house makes and for designing commissions with clients. Under his care, Gieves & Hawkes has gained a reputation as one of the most forward-thinking bespoke tailors in London.
'We design garments to respond to customers' lifestyles and to the rise of technical, smart-casual clothing,' he explains, with immaculately trousered legs crossed, as he sips a coffee in the archive room at the top of No 1 Savile Row. 'Tailoring has to keep evolving, so we play with quilted linings, detachable elements and the structure of our suits. But unlike off-the-peg clothing, everything we make is fitted to maintain a bespoke silhouette, the garment's form works in harmony with its functionality.'
So, what shape do these experiments take? There have been plenty since Taub took the helm five years ago, but most recently his work has challenged the notion that tailored garments have to be 'traditional', something he's keen to expand upon. 'I've long questioned how tailored garments are made. Why stay still as a craftsman when you can innovate? At Gieves & Hawkes, we create one jacket a year that's inspired by changing patterns in our customers' lives. It's an opportunity to celebrate bespoke design and demonstrate the relevance of tailoring in an everyday wardrobe. Our driving jackets, barrel pea coat and our casual unstructured blazers all came about this way.
'These projects show how we're pushing things forward,' he continues. 'Our job is about having a conversation, listening to customers and designing something with them in mind, as an architect would, and we think of bespoke in those terms.' This philosophy goes some way to explaining Davide's more unusual creations such as his quilted alpine jackets. These are cut in technical 'storm-proof' wool and designed to be comfortable sports coats to take skiing, whether worn on the slopes or as a svelte alternative to a down-filled parka for après ski.
Then there is the brushed-cotton detachable 'bibs' that Davide designed for customers to fasten into the front of their jackets, a clever hybrid solution that combines sportswear design with tailoring. 'That came about through a conversation with a customer,' he says. 'It just made sense for a tailored sports coat to retain its silhouette, while the gilet provided an extra layer of protection.'
His latest innovation is the yachting blazer. It’s softly structured for comfort, with natural shoulders and lapels which can be fastened at the nape of the neck. On each side there’s a slanting welt pocket, a feature which seldom appears on a tailored jacket. 'It is this garment that resonated with our customers the most, alongside the driving jacket,' he says, allowing himself a small smile. 'It's just a useful double-breasted blazer. The pockets give it a pea-coat functionality, it feels modern, but it draws on our tradition as a military tailor at the same time.'
Of course, the close relationship that Davide builds with clients also makes his job special. 'As a cutter, you're in the privileged position to actually meet your customer. There's no distancing from the end user. You understand his lifestyle and how clients see good clothes fitting into their lives.
Making clothes at this level is a mentality, some people may never get it, but I'm making suits for those that do.’
Stephen Doig explains why the snappiest dressers will be wearing wider lapels this season
In the ebb and flow of fashion trends, one prevailing thread throughout the last decade or more has seen a shrinking of sorts. Suits are tighter and more nipped-in, a hangover from the knife edge cuts and reed thin proportions of Hedi Slimane at the starts of the 00s, trousers are second skin and jacket lapels have been reduced to the narrowest of slithers. But, as Gieves & Hawkes' Autumn/Winter 2017 collection proves, wide lapels lend a sense of stature that their skinny little brothers just can't muster.
Thick, solid lapels – either on a traditional double-breasted or a more slim-cut single-breasted blazer – make a sartorial statement that means business. Quite literally; they nod to a certain kind of captain of industry in a suit that has substance, clout and presence. Wide lapels fly in the face of sleek, slender modernity and evoke a sense of nostalgia; they exude a Mad Men kind of charm, a Rat Pack pizazz, and technically they serve to manipulate and morph the silhouette.
A wide-cut lapel will emphasise the torso and shoulders, creating more of a V-shape that broadens the top half and narrows the bottom of the jacket, even if that is no more than an illusion. A strapping fellow will be enhanced by wide lapels, and on slender, tall frames they can add a sense of heft. The tricks of a good tailor are myriad, and the sharpest use the lapels on a jacket to elongate the frame; a notch lapel that sits high will lengthen the body, likewise a peak lapel with particularly angular slants will look more streamlined – helpful for larger frames.
The fabrication, too, is paramount with a wide-lapelled jacket. The extra bulk of the material works more harmoniously with simpler, classic cloths; a navy or steely grey wool for example. Fabrics with checks, patterns or a certain degree of 'heaviness' – that is nubbly tweeds or tufted herringbones – when combined with a big lapel can seem overly busy and cumbersome because of the extra element that such a feature adds.
It's also worth considering, or in fact celebrating, the unabashed sense of ceremony that substantial lapels bring; they are undoubtedly stately and therefore add a touch of élan to evening attire; a dinner jacket in lustrous velvet or a black tie ensemble in inky silk can't help but lend presence with the addition of prominent lapels. Narrow versions are almost apologetic in their slimness; supersize them to add a real punctuation mark to a jacket.
Mansel Fletcher explores how Gieves & Hawkes has a history of drawing on royal and military influences with checks and plaids in its tailoring and outerwear
Checked suits and jackets are back on the style agenda this season, but among Savile Row's royal customers their popularity has spanned three centuries. It's no coincidence that one of the best known of these patterns is the Prince of Wales check (also known as the glen check for reasons that will become clear). Less well known is the identity of the Prince who lent the check his name, but the story of the rustic origins of this checked fabric help us understand how to wear it.
In the 1840s, Lady Caroline, the Countess of Seafield, adopted a large-scale check as the estate tweed for her land at Glen Urquhart near Inverness in Scotland – hence the name glen check. Albert Edward Saxe-Coburg, Queen Victoria's eldest son and future King, was a regular guest of the Seafield's and noticed and admired the patterned tweed worn by their gamekeepers. It's worth reflecting for a moment on the atmosphere and nature of the Seafield's estate. The Prince was there, in the wilds of northern Scotland, to shoot with friends, and the clothes worn by the estate's employees captured his imagination. In essence, the Prince was adopting country sportswear, and that rural tradition informs the checked, raglan-sleeve overcoats in Gieves & Hawkes' new collection. Today the effect is to lend the coats a useful informality, so that they can work just as well with jeans and a chunky sweater as with tailored clothes.
Although King Edward VII (as the Prince later became) is remembered as a stickler for sartorial propriety, his early experiments with informality (as well as popularising the glen check, he also pioneered the dinner jacket) perhaps inspired his grandson, the Duke of Windsor. As a young man the Duke (then titled the Prince of Wales) began to adopt shockingly informal elements into his wardrobe, including many checked suits, which led to the popular misconception that he gave his name to the Prince of Wales check. If the glen check's rural origins inspired this season's overcoats, then Gieves’ new three-piece suits bring to mind the sophisticated style of the Duke of Windsor. They have enough about them to cut a dash, while demonstrating sufficient restraint to be appropriate for all but the most formal occasions.
A sense of restraint has long distinguished the style of our current Prince of Wales, who combines both the propriety of King Edward VII and the élan of the Duke of Windsor in his dress. And like his forebears, Prince Charles is no stranger to checked jackets and suits, whether lightweight lounge suits or unusual double-breasted tweed jackets. With this multi-generational history, the glen check has long enjoyed a royal seal of approval, and thanks to Gieves & Hawkes, this season it's taking on a newfound relevance.
Josh Sims tells the story of Gieves & Hawkes’ latest collection and why Autumn/Winter feels like a return to the tailor’s British beginnings
For one of the most British of brands, Gieves & Hawkes’ Autumn/Winter collection marks a return to its roots, a shift away from the Continent. ‘Britishness is hard to capture, and easy to get wrong, but it’s also unique in its eccentricity and fun,’ says the company’s senior designer, Edward Finney. ‘You don’t get fun in any other nation’s sense of dress. You wouldn’t get an Italian describing their clothing that way. And we’ve had a modern, quite Italian feel for a while – we felt it was time to give this collection some fresh air.’ Or, at least, air infused with incense. For the new collection the design team referenced the 1970s – the most overlooked of decades in British design – and sought inspiration in the style of The Rolling Stones and The Beatles; the latter, of course, once performed from the roof-tops of Savile Row. ‘Think richness, decadence and extravagance, George Harrison, Hare Krishna, and Persian rugs,’ says Finney. ‘Of course, nobody wants to wear something that looks like a Persian rug – but you can take inspiration from its colour or texture.’
Certainly texture, as Finney stresses, is all the more important given the limitations of menswear design – the Autumn/Winter collection dials down on suede, cashmere, mottled flannel, moleskin and corduroy, for example. Colour and pattern – from houndstooth to paisley – are important too, in the right doses: a new multi-hued biscuit check was developed with Johnstons of Elgin for a raglan sleeve overcoat, while another of the collection’s stand-out garments is a burgundy-on-navy large windowpane checked two-piece suit in an updated house silhouette, with a longer skirt and broader, squarer lapels. ‘The boldness of the fabric means this suit is not going to be a top seller for us,’ laughs Finney. ‘But it’s punchy. It has attitude.’ Wear it over a soft, plain roll-neck to let the suit do the talking.
Indeed, there’s a new sumptuousness to this benchmark collection in general - less canvasing in the tailoring, less padding in the shoulders. Yes, there are three-piece suits for those who want to be smart - ‘there's a sense now that if you want to dress formally, don’t do it by halves,’ Finney notes - but overall the mood is more towards ease and comfort, with more casualwear than is typical from Gieves & Hawkes: flannel and needlecord shirts, cosy knitwear. ‘The fact is that’s just the way men are dressing now – we still cater to more traditional professions, the likes of banking and law, with more formal dress codes, but we need to cater to those who find their office dress is getting more and more relaxed too,’ explains Finney. ‘It’s a big step for a company like ours, and it’s been a challenge, but it’s the right step.’
Getting here has definitely not been without its conflicts at Gieves & Hawkes. ‘The Beatles or The Rolling Stones? I have to say I’m more a Rolling Stones fan, but it’s probably The Beatles who have had more influence on the way the collection looks,’ adds Finney. ‘Yes, we’ve had plenty of arguments over that one.'
The official start of the English Summer Season, Chelsea Flower Show has been held at Chelsea since 1912, the same year that Hawkes acquired No.1 Savile Row and became the most famous address in menswear.
The show is attended by HM The Queen as Patron of the Royal Horticultural Society and by other members of the Royal Family every year, and attracts over 150,000 visitors over five days. There is fierce competition for the prestigious medals awarded to the best exhibits as well as the Best Show Garden Award.
Chelsea Flower Show is the first opportunity of the year to dress up, and whilst there is no official dress code, the event calls for elevated tailored separates and an optimistic outlook on the weather, with rain seldom far from mind. A linen suit paired with a dressed-down polo shirt is a perfect choice, or if you are attending a more formal reception or perhaps a smart lunch during the day, a blazer and trouser combination worn with a shirt and tie is called for. Opting for a summery palette of pastels or a softer shade of blue or grey is key to embracing the start of this most quintessentially British season.
With thanks to Tim Penrose at Bowdens and Fiona Sanderson at the Luxury Channel.Read more
Gieves & Hawkes and The Gentleman's Journal hosted their 4th annual Christmas Drinks at No.1 Savile Row, welcoming friends and Mayfair neighbours in the Map Room.
Celebrating the season with Gusbourne English sparkling and signature Sipsmith gin cocktails, models Oliver Cheshire, Roger Frampton and Richard Biedul, along with British actor Ed Speleers joined 200 guests for an evening of festive fun, gift inspiration and classic mens style.Read more
Discover the unique Royal Heritage and the exquisite craftsmanship behind G&H’s luxurious British tailoring.
No.1 Savile Row, the iconic address in London’s Mayfair, has been home to Gieves & Hawkes since 1912. Creating the finest bespoke tailoring for over 245 years and providing the best sartorial advice to gentleman for generations, we invite you to discover this rich tradition for yourself.
Today, we welcome a discerning group of younger, international gentlemen, and with these future style leaders in mind, we are proud to launch our official G&H Academy programme.
The G&H Academy Masterclass, hosted monthly at No.1 Savile Row, will introduce G&H’s unique Royal Heritage and the exquisite craftsmanship behind our luxurious British tailoring.
Bespoke tailoring represents the ultimate expression of the tailor’s craft and is the very essence of Gieves & Hawkes. Davide Taub, Head Cutter at Gieves & Hawkes, will be our special guest speaker in November, providing live demonstrations on the Art of Bespoke, pointing what to look for in cut, drape, material and detailing when you choose your first Savile Row suit.
Bespoke tailoring is one of life’s last true luxuries and something every gentleman should one day experience.Read more
The steady transition from the balmy warmth of late Summer to the refreshing crispness of Autumn is arguably the single most exciting time of the year for luxury menswear.
It is, after all, at the start of the Autumn Winter Collection when you can start to discover something new, rediscover the pleasure of experimenting with different layers and seek the comfort of warming, beguilingly soft tailoring and knitwear once more. Particularly exciting for me personally, is the directional, elegant sensibility that underpins the new Gieves & Hawkes Autumn Winter 2016 collection. Not least because I’ve long preached that warm, earthy tones are the most elegant, wearable and beguiling colours to be found in modern tailored menswear.
Gieves & Hawkes, the international menswear brand, is proud to wish their brand ambassador, Alex Hua Tian, every luck in the upcoming Olympic Games in Rio.
Alex Hua Tian, the British-born rider, will be competing for China at the Olympic Games Rio 2016 and was the youngest-ever equestrian at an Olympic Games when he entered the arena in Beijing 2008 at just 18 years old. Alex took home a silver medal at the Asian Games in 2014 and won the second leg of the Event Rider Masters this June before heading to Rio for the Olympic Games.
Educated at Eton, Alex is the perfect fit with the values of Gieves & Hawkes and was appointed as a Brand Ambassador in 2013. Gieves & Hawkes is proud to supply bespoke riding jackets for Alex and dresses him for occasions both on and off the Eventing circuit.
Head Cutter and Bespoke Tailor, Davide Taub designed and fitted the jackets which were then made by the master tailors of the bespoke workroom on the premises at No.1 Savile Row. The coats are designed to accentuate the elegant lines of the competitor on horseback. Tailoring details abound, including hand top-stitched seams, double parallel front darts, gauntlet cuffs, curved shoulder seams and the piping and lining details that elegantly incorporate Team China colours.
AW16 heralds a change in pace from last Fall’s urban, dark and slick mood; but it is not about settling down, rather more settling in to the modern British gentleman’s lifestyle – presenting more casual clothes made for Country house parties and for exploring the streets of a foreign city, requiring the same level of refinement and luxury but in a cosy, comfortable and considered manner.
Established codes have been reinforced with a youthful edge, clean fresh styling and updated proportions.
Avoiding cliché country tweeds, a two piece suit in soft black and grey granite donegal is worn with a cashmere knit polo and bold knit scarf; taking the formality down whilst ensuring the look is still smart and put-together. A navy checked car coat is worn with a textured wool knit tie and a tonal shirt, or alternatively a two button, single breasted jacket in winter white self-check is worn with white cotton/cashmere chinos and a wool polo neck. A double breasted camel blazer with chunky knit scarf and cream pants is worn open with insouciance.
Orlebar Brown and Gieves & Hawkes have collaborated on a capsule collection that celebrates travel and exploration with a collection of tailored ready-to-wear worthy of historic adventurers and fit for their modern counterparts.
Taking inspiration from the pre-eminent Scottish explorer David Livingstone, Orlebar Brown has reimagined his meticulous hand-drawn maps onto a range of utilitarian clothing in an invigorating palette of navy, congo grey and limestone. Livingstone is one of the most popular national heroes of the late 19th century and owes his mythic status due to his pioneering expeditions and championing of multiple causes, from anti-slavery to social reform.
In many ways Livingstone’s fate has always been intertwined with Gieves & Hawkes. When the public feared the explorer was dead, Henry Morton Stanley was sent to find him by the New York Herald in 1871. Dressed in Hawkes & Co, Stanley found Livingstone alive and well, decked out in Gieves. Upon Livingstone’s death his body was returned to London to lay in repose at No.1 Savile Row – then the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society – and since 1912 the home of Gieves & Hawkes.
The spirit of curiosity, exploration and discovery reverberates through both brands and makes this a unique collaboration that unites an ethos as well as an aesthetic.
Every detail has been considered to provide practical functionality whilst remaining true to the precision and masculinity of Savile Row. The full ready-to-wear range includes a safari jacket, cargo trousers, along with T-shirts and swim shorts.Read more
As part of the ‘Savile Row and America: A Sartorial Special Relationship’ exhibition that took place in Washington DC on May 14, 2015, Gieves & Hawkes revealed its unique, modern interpretation of the classic driving jacket. Commissioned by Bentley Motors, the jacket celebrates the heritage and artistry that both Bentley and Gieves & Hawkes represent.
No.1 Savile Row Head Cutter Davide Taub created the garment that was later displayed at the British Ambassador’s Residence in Washington DC. In bringing Bentley and Savile Row together, the jacket showcases the best of British craftsmanship and performance today, along with the rich heritage and storied history of the two brands. This partnership highlights two luxury businesses that share a history of handcrafted detail, and who both continue this tradition of uncompromising quality into the twenty-first century.
The Jacket will return to London and will be on display at No.1 Savile Row during London Collections: Men, June 12 to 15, 2015.Read more
At the Great festival, Shanghai tailors to the British Royal family, Gieves & Hawkes, will be moving the cutting room of No.1 Savile Row, London to Shanghai for one day only, March 4, to showcase the unique craftsmanship of bespoke tailoring.
‘For me the experienced bespoke cutter at Savile Row is like the master of jade carving in Asia. It’s a highly skill based role, requiring both craftsmanship and artistry. Every item of bespoke clothing is hand-made in the bespoke workshops at No.1 Savile Row to present sartorial elegance at its very finest’ Head Cutter, No.1 Savile row
At the GREAT festival Mr Lawson will cut a new tailcoat for Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian. Eton-educated Hua Tian is a Chinese Olympic equestrian who recently won Silver Medal at the Asian games. His Team China tailcoats are made to order at No.1 Savile Row. Mr Lawson will also prepare a suit made from one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics in the world for a fitting with a Chinese customer.
Gieves & Hawkes have been making bespoke clothing for international royalty, heads of state and men of distinction for over 200 years. The skills of the master craftsman are passed down from generation to generation, coupled with a love and respect for the art of tailoring.
Today Gieves & Hawkes holds all three Royal Warrants and proudly dresses three generations of the British Royal family, continuing the firm’s uninterrupted service to the British monarchy stretching back to 1799. No.1 Savile Row has been the Flagship store since 1912.
The Directors of Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce that Davide Taub, Head Bespoke Cutter from No.1 Savile Row, will be available in Dallas, Los Angeles & New York for Bespoke fittings.
The Joule, 1530 Main St Dallas - Texas
Friday 22nd February
The Sunset Maquis, 1200 Alta Loma Road, West Hollywood - Los Angeles
Sunday 24th February & Monday 25th February
The Mark Hotel, Madison Avenue, 77th Street - New York
Wednesday 27th February, Thursday 28th February & Friday 1st March
To book an appointment please email firstname.lastname@example.org or call +44(0) 207 432 6411Read more
For Autumn Winter 2015 Gieves & Hawkes moves back into the city with a broad and darkly layered urban wardrobe. Richly structured with a film noir quality, the palette is saturated and textural in charcoal, black, ink, plum and navy. The tone is mat with flashes of sheen.
The look is masculine and powerful, centred around outerwear and overcoats. Softer shapes and sumptuous textures in cashmere and double faced wool are trimmed with mink and dressed with Astrakhan.
For day the suit is elegantly broken, tonally mismatched in micro patterns of textured yarns in cashmere, silk and wool. Colour is moody and mixed up with the flash of a silk scarf or tie. Dress shoes are hand burnished dark maroon and navy over black. The attaché case is in plum crocodile.
The weekend is urban and dressed up in dark indigo and air force grey. Heavy cashmere knitwear is paired with a grey Nubuck bomber or a soft tonal Prince of Wales overcoat and grey crocodile lug soled shoes. The reefer is in aubergine cashmere, the pea coat in shearling.
Eveningwear is subverted with oversized herringbones and Prince of Wales checks morphing into rich shades of navy and claret worn with fine gauge knitwear or dark evening shirts. The formal coat is sharply tailored in dark burgundy Alpaca and black pony skin.Read more
As part of the ongoing elevation and evolution of the house, Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce the completion of the renovations of No.1 Savile Row and the launch of a new global flagship store.
With arguably the best address in the world of tailoring, No.1 Savile Row is an elegant eighteenth century William Kent townhouse and, since 1912, the flagship store of Gieves & Hawkes. Under one roof are showcased the Ready To Wear collections, Private Tailoring and Bespoke services alongside the military department and Royal archive. In grand suites of private rooms men of significance are welcomed with discretion and warmth.
Below stairs, master tailors cut and stitch bespoke suits by hand, as they have done for generations, for the most discerning gentlemen around the world.
Over the past twelve months, interior designer Teresa Hastings has worked with Chief Creative Officer Jason Basmajian to sensitively restore and modernise the interiors. The result is a design inspired by the bespoke traditions of precision, quality and beauty.
With a passion for the handcrafted, Teresa Hastings has introduced a palette of fumed oak, cast bronze, tailoring textures and fabricated metals to create an atmosphere of modern masculine luxury. Designs for new fittings and furniture have been hand drawn in pencil and pen and developed using a team of largely British craftsmen and makers.
As in fine tailoring, the luxury is in the detail with bronze and brass door handles hand cast using the lost-wax technique.At the centre of the store is the famous Map room, added by the Royal Geographic Society in 1871, restored to its former splendour.Read more
In the illustrious setting of No. 1 Savile Row, key figures from the international menswear sphere, journalists and friends of the brand joined the directors of Vitale Barberis Canonico, Italy's oldest woollen mill, to celebrate the refurbishment of Gieves & Hawkes’s flagship store and a new collaboration between the two Houses.
The black tie dinner continued late into the night in a mood of sartorial celebration. Among the distinguished guests were Lord & Lady West of Spithead, Lord & Lady Davies of Abersoch, Francesco Barberis Canonico, Julie de Libran, Yue-Sai Kan, international journalists and tastemakers. Before sitting down to a lavish dinner, guests enjoyed the award-winning Nyetimber Classic Cuvee and wines selected especially for the evening from Berry Bros.& Rudd. Sr. Francesco Barberis Canonico announced a very special opportunity - a personal invitation to any G&H clients choosing a VBC fabric to visit the mill in Italy and tour their archive.
How to dress in 90 seconds - A film by Eddie Wrey
The new film sees the setting updated to a triple height mews house in SW7, and Jake Parkinson Smith, the grandson of iconic British photographer Norman Parkinson, taking on the leading role.
Says Jason Basmajian, Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes:
‘Someone sent me a link to the original film which was a 50’s public service broadcast on how a gentleman should order his wardrobe - and I loved it. We then discovered from our archivist that the Duke of Bedford had been a good customer of ours at the time and that his wardrobe would have been largely from Gieves. At that point we thought it merited attention and a loosely inspired modern remake.’
In the film, directed by Eddie Wrey, Jake shows the modern man how to get out the door in 90 seconds flat. The film features the new Autumn Winter hand-tailored in Britain collection of ready to wear exclusively available at No.1 Savile Row with the new Jaguar F Type making a cameo appearance.
Property provided by 88ltd, with a special thanks to Panos Koutsogiannakis.
Jason Basmajian, Creative Director:
‘In business since 1771, we have many customers from families that have been shopping at Gieves & Hawkes, No.1 Savile Row for generations. A father brings his son to buy his first suit for an important birthday, school social events or graduation. People that have shopped with us for generations trust the impeccable taste and guidance of the staff at No.1 Savile Row. Today as we welcome more and more discerning younger gentlemen into our Flagship store, we wanted to celebrate that heritage but express it in a way that would be modern and relevant to the next generation.
Chinese Olympic Equestrian and Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian explains:
‘At the age of 16 my father brought me to No.1 Savile Row to buy my first suit. He explained to me that it is the heritage and the quality that makes Gieves & Hawkes so special. When wearing their clothes you are following in the footsteps of great men and maintaining a tradition for understated British elegance’.
Eddie Wrey is a young filmmaker who worked for many years for Mario Testino. He recently shot the Gieves & Hawkes A/W 14 campaign in the Highlands of Scotland.
Continuing the brand’s association with Jaguar the film features the new F type coupe.
The film was shot on location at the Vesta rowing club, on the river Thames in London and in the recently renovated first floor VIP rooms of Gieves & Hawkes flagship store at No.1 Savile Row. On show in the Robert Gieves room is the Royal Archive featuring the uniforms for the Queen’s bodyguard - The Honorable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms - held at No.1 Savile Row since 1912.
The artwork above the original 1732 William Kent fireplace is by Fredikson Stalled.
The son in the film wears Gieves & Hawkes cashmere hoodie, suede bomber jacket, navy polo shirt, beige cotton trousers, beige suede shoes, leather driving gloves and changes into his made to measure Morning coat. He is dressed most likely for his wedding when morning coats are often traditionally worn in England.
The father wears ready to wear from the A/W 14 collection.