AUTUMN / WINTER 2016 COLLECTION NOTES
AW16 heralds a change in pace from last Fall’s urban, dark and slick mood; but it is not about settling down, rather more settling in to the modern British gentleman’s lifestyle – presenting more casual clothes made for Country house parties and for exploring the streets of a foreign city, requiring the same level of refinement and luxury but in a cosy, comfortable and considered manner. Established codes have been reinforced with a youthful edge, clean fresh styling and updated proportions.
Avoiding cliché country tweeds, a two piece suit in soft black and grey granite donegal is worn with a cashmere knit polo and bold knit scarf; taking the formality down whilst ensuring the look is still smart and put-together. A navy checked car coat is worn with a textured wool knit tie and a tonal shirt, or alternatively a two button, single breasted jacket in winter white self-check is worn with white cotton/cashmere chinos and a wool polo neck. A double breasted camel blazer with chunky knit scarf and cream pants is worn open with insouciance.
CASUALWEAR & OUTERWEAR
G&H has established an aesthetic based on a continental language with a strong British accent over the past few years. Focussing on British-made, G&H has worked with UK mills to create unique statement fabrics including exploded houndstooth and large Prince of Wales checks. Technical fabrics have been developed in Italy to ensure such pieces as the clay red waterproof-wool bodywarmer with down lining are as practical as they are stylish. Richly textured knits in basket weave and twist-cable are a layering staple and worn under tailored sports coats and coats alike. Knit-on-knit is a fresh and contemporary way to layer either in matching the scarf with the sweater, or with sweater-on-sweater pairings. Knits have taken their inspiration from woven fabrics used elsewhere in the collection.
CASUALWEAR & OUTERWEAR CONTINUED...
A youthful shearling-lined parka with fur trim gives a fresh twist on a weekend favourite and a shearling car coat is presented as an updated luxury investment piece. British-woven camel cloth is presented in two looks, a peacoat and a double-breasted overcoat, both cut with versatility in mind to be worn either with a shirt and knit, or a chunky polo neck. The camel has been inverted to sportswear instead of traditional business attire. The exclusive British-woven wool jacquard bomber jacket is a modern interpretation of a tweed jacket in a young, short style which is as perfect worn with beat-up jeans as tailored chinos. Old-school fabrics have been revisited, moving away from notions of stiff and coarse to a soft handle and drape.
The formal evening silk jacquard has become a signature of the House. Continuing our tradition of working with British silk weavers to create new patterns, this season’s foliate country jacquard in bronze comes in a relaxed double-breasted jacket worn with a cashmere/silk polo neck and black wool dress pants and a punchy contrast sock detail. A grey flannel tuxedo and the houses’s iconic shawl-collar velvet jacket are taken country with the addition of a knit and chunky scarf.
SHOES & ACCESSORIES
Reflecting the adventurous spirit of the season, refined calf leather lace-ups and Chelsea boots have been fitted with a chunky Commando sole. The country lace-up has been pared down and beefed up. Rugged but still elegant these sit alongside smart sneakers in chocolate brown and black with a gum sole. Oversized cable-knit scarves worn with tailoring reflect a sporty country mood. FOR MORE
For further details please contact:
William Matthews | Gieves & Hawkes | 44 20 7432 6419 | firstname.lastname@example.org
Jon Holt | Massey PR | 44 20 7637 3220 | email@example.com
“I AM PREPARED TO GO ANYWHERE,
PROVIDED IT BE FORWARD”
David Livingstone (19 March 1813 – 1 May 1873)
Orlebar Brown and Gieves & Hawkes have collaborated on a capsule collection that celebrates travel and exploration with a collection of tailored ready-to-wear worthy of historic adventurers and fit for their modern counterparts.
Taking inspiration from the pre-eminent Scottish explorer David Livingstone, Orlebar Brown has reimagined his meticulous hand-drawn maps onto a range of utilitarian clothing in an invigorating palette of navy, congo grey and limestone. Livingstone is one of the most popular national heroes of the late 19th century and owes his mythic status due to his pioneering expeditions and championing of multiple causes, from anti-slavery to social reform.
In many ways Livingstone’s fate has always been intertwined with Gieves & Hawkes. When the public feared the explorer was dead, Henry Morton Stanley was sent to find him by the New York Herald in 1871. Dressed in Hawkes & Co, Stanley found Livingstone alive and well, decked out in Gieves. Upon Livingstone’s death his body was returned to London to lay in repose at No.1 Savile Row – then the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society – and since 1912 the home of Gieves & Hawkes.
The spirit of curiosity, exploration and discovery reverberates through both brands and makes this a unique collaboration that unites an ethos as well as an aesthetic.
Every detail has been considered to provide practical functionality whilst remaining true to the precision and masculinity of Savile Row. The full ready-to-wear range includes a safari jacket, cargo trousers, along with T-shirts and swim shorts.
The collection is available at www.orlebarbrown.co.uk/gieves-and-hawkes-collaboration
BENTLEY X GIEVES & HAWKES DRIVING JACKET
As part of the ‘Savile Row and America: A Sartorial Special Relationship’ exhibition that took place in Washington DC on May 14, 2015, Gieves & Hawkes revealed its unique, modern interpretation of the classic driving jacket. Commissioned by Bentley Motors, the jacket celebrates the heritage and artistry that both Bentley and Gieves & Hawkes represent.
No.1 Savile Row Head Cutter Davide Taub created the garment that was later displayed at the British Ambassador’s Residence in Washington DC. In bringing Bentley and Savile Row together, the jacket showcases the best of British craftsmanship and performance today, along with the rich heritage and storied history of the two brands. This partnership highlights two luxury businesses that share a history of handcrafted detail, and who both continue this tradition of uncompromising quality into the twenty-first century.
The Jacket will return to London and will be on display at No.1 Savile Row during London Collections: Men, June 12 to 15, 2015.
BESPOKE SHOWCASE AT THE GREAT FESTIVAL OF CREATIVITY
SHANGHAI LONG MUSEUM I 4TH MARCH 2015
At the Great festival, Shanghai tailors to the British Royal family, Gieves & Hawkes, will be moving the cutting room of No.1 Savile Row, London to Shanghai for one day only, March 4, to showcase the unique craftsmanship of bespoke tailoring.
‘For me the experienced bespoke cutter at Savile Row is like the master of jade carving in Asia. It’s a highly skill based role, requiring both craftsmanship and artistry. Every item of bespoke clothing is hand-made in the bespoke workshops at No.1 Savile Row to present sartorial elegance at its very finest’ Head Cutter, No.1 Savile row
At the GREAT festival Mr Lawson will cut a new tailcoat for Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian. Eton-educated Hua Tian is a Chinese Olympic equestrian who recently won Silver Medal at the Asian games. His Team China tailcoats are made to order at No.1 Savile Row. Mr Lawson will also prepare a suit made from one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics in the world for a fitting with a Chinese customer.
Gieves & Hawkes have been making bespoke clothing for international royalty, heads of state and men of distinction for over 200 years. The skills of the master craftsman are passed down from generation to generation, coupled with a love and respect for the art of tailoring.
Today Gieves & Hawkes holds all three Royal Warrants and proudly dresses three generations of the British Royal family, continuing the firm’s uninterrupted service to the British monarchy stretching back to 1799. No.1 Savile Row has been the Flagship store since 1912.
New York Bespoke Appointments
The Directors of Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce that Davide Taub, Head Bespoke Cutter from No.1 Savile Row, will be available in New York for Bespoke fittings, by appointment, Tuesday 23rd to Saturday 27th of February at the Mark Madison Avenue at 77th Street.
To book an appointment please email firstname.lastname@example.org or call +44(0) 203 102 6162
For Autumn Winter 2015 Gieves & Hawkes moves back into the city with a broad and darkly layered urban wardrobe. Richly structured with a film noir quality, the palette is saturated and textural in charcoal, black, ink, plum and navy. The tone is mat with flashes of sheen.
The look is masculine and powerful, centred around outerwear and overcoats. Softer shapes and sumptuous textures in cashmere and double faced wool are trimmed with mink and dressed with Astrakhan.
For day the suit is elegantly broken, tonally mismatched in micro patterns of textured yarns in cashmere, silk and wool. Colour is moody and mixed up with the flash of a silk scarf or tie. Dress shoes are hand burnished dark maroon and navy over black. The attaché case is in plum crocodile.
The weekend is urban and dressed up in dark indigo and air force grey. Heavy cashmere knitwear is paired with a grey Nubuck bomber or a soft tonal Prince of Wales overcoat and grey crocodile lug soled shoes. The reefer is in aubergine cashmere, the pea coat in shearling.
Eveningwear is subverted with oversized herringbones and Prince of Wales checks morphing into rich shades of navy and claret worn with fine gauge knitwear or dark evening shirts. The formal coat is sharply tailored in dark burgundy Alpaca and black pony skin.
No.1 SAVILE ROW
As part of the ongoing elevation and evolution of the house, Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce the completion of the renovations of No.1 Savile Row and the launch of a new global flagship store.
With arguably the best address in the world of tailoring, No.1 Savile Row is an elegant eighteenth century William Kent townhouse and, since 1912, the flagship store of Gieves & Hawkes. Under one roof are showcased the Ready To Wear collections, Private Tailoring and Bespoke services alongside the military department and Royal archive. In grand suites of private rooms men of significance are welcomed with discretion and warmth.
Below stairs, master tailors cut and stitch bespoke suits by hand, as they have done for generations, for the most discerning gentlemen around the world.
Over the past twelve months, interior designer Teresa Hastings has worked with Chief Creative Officer Jason Basmajian to sensitively restore and modernise the interiors. The result is a design inspired by the bespoke traditions of precision, quality and beauty.
With a passion for the handcrafted, Teresa Hastings has introduced a palette of fumed oak, cast bronze, tailoring textures and fabricated metals to create an atmosphere of modern masculine luxury. Designs for new fittings and furniture have been hand drawn in pencil and pen and developed using a team of largely British craftsmen and makers.
As in fine tailoring, the luxury is in the detail with bronze and brass door handles hand cast using the lost-wax technique.At the centre of the store is the famous Map room, added by the Royal Geographic Society in 1871, restored to its former splendour.
G&H Vitale Barberis Canonico Gala Dinner
In the illustrious setting of No. 1 Savile Row, key figures from the international menswear sphere, journalists and friends of the brand joined the directors of Vitale Barberis Canonico, Italy's oldest woollen mill, to celebrate the refurbishment of Gieves & Hawkes’s flagship store and a new collaboration between the two Houses.
The black tie dinner continued late into the night in a mood of sartorial celebration. Among the distinguished guests were Lord & Lady West of Spithead, Lord & Lady Davies of Abersoch, Francesco Barberis Canonico, Julie de Libran, Yue-Sai Kan, international journalists and tastemakers. Before sitting down to a lavish dinner, guests enjoyed the award-winning Nyetimber Classic Cuvee and wines selected especially for the evening from Berry Bros.& Rudd. Sr. Francesco Barberis Canonico announced a very special opportunity - a personal invitation to any G&H clients choosing a VBC fabric to visit the mill in Italy and tour their archive.
GIEVES & HAWKES PRESENT SPRING / SUMMER 2015
Continuing the association between fine tailoring and modern art, Gieves & Hawkes moved the short distance from Christie’s to White Cube in St James’s, London to present Spring / Summer 2015.
Thirty five models, still like living sculptures, dramatically lit and perfectly attired, presented the ideal wardrobe for any summer occasion, from boardroom to beach. The mood was softer and the ambiance more relaxed, in shades of grey, driftwood, azur and teal.
There to admire were the international fashion press and friends of the creative director, Jason Basmajian, including David Gandy, Aidan Shaw and Jack Guinness.
Representing the new face of Gieves & Hawkes were the dapper Jake Parkinson-Smith wearing pale blue G&H seersucker, Mr Lawrence Clarke immaculate in a pale grey 3 piece from S/S 15 and Chinese Olympian Alex Hua Tian, fresh from competing that morning.
Buyers from the finest stores around the world including Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue enjoyed Cuvée Classic from award-winning British vineyard, Nyetimber. Images and a glowing report of the night went straight up on style.com.
The invention of the English gentleman
Savile Row is the world’s most iconic address for the best in bespoke tailoring and home to legendary Gieves & Hawkes – suppliers to the British military for more than two centuries and furnishers to elegant gentlemen today.
The company began by designing attire for Britain’s most illustrious officers, including Admiral Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington, as well as ten generations of British Royalty, from King George III in 1809 to Princes William and Harry today.
As masculine attire evolved after World War I, Gieves & Hawkes added civilian clothing to its repertoire, applying centuries of expertise in creating hand-made garments – proportion, cutting, fitting, and quality fabrics – to the finest bespoke tailoring.
This volume traces the rich history of tailoring, drawing from Gieves & Hawkes’ vast, unpublished archives of client ledgers, garments and ready-to-wear collections; this is an indispensable book on classic men’s style and fine tailoring.
Available in store at No.1 Savile Row. RRP £60
GIEVES & HAWKES STYLE AT CHRISTIE’S NOBLE & EUROPEAN COLLECTIONS
Following the success of Gieves & Hawkes A/W 2014 fashion show held at Christies galleries last January the two houses came together again last week in a unique collaboration in celebration of the Noble House & European Collections sale. Christies asked Gieves & Hawkes to bring their unique point of view to the private view and to work with them on bringing a modern and stylish approach to the presentation of the exquisite heritage pieces on sale. Three vignettes featuring military lots from both houses set the tone. The presentation was graphic and precise on a dark grey background, the lighting dramatic and the atmosphere in the room stylish and modern echoing the newly refurbished No 1 Savile Row. Admirals and aristocrats mixed with international fashion, style and business leaders in celebration of the craftsmanship and beauty on show.
HOW TO DRESS IN 90 SECONDS
The new film sees the setting updated to a triple height mews house in SW7, and Jake Parkinson Smith, the grandson of iconic British photographer Norman Parkinson, taking on the leading role.
Says Jason Basmajian, Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes:
‘Someone sent me a link to the original film which was a 50’s public service broadcast on how a gentleman should order his wardrobe - and I loved it. We then discovered from our archivist that the Duke of Bedford had been a good customer of ours at the time and that his wardrobe would have been largely from Gieves. At that point we thought it merited attention and a loosely inspired modern remake.’
In the film, directed by Eddie Wrey, Jake shows the modern man how to get out the door in 90 seconds flat. The film features the new Autumn Winter hand-tailored in Britain collection of ready to wear exclusively available at No.1 Savile Row with the new Jaguar F Type making a cameo appearance.
Property provided by 88ltd, with a special thanks to Panos Koutsogiannakis.
Jason Basmajian, Creative Director:
‘In business since 1771, we have many customers from families that have been shopping at Gieves & Hawkes, No.1 Savile Row for generations. A father brings his son to buy his first suit for an important birthday, school social events or graduation. People that have shopped with us for generations trust the impeccable taste and guidance of the staff at No.1 Savile Row. Today as we welcome more and more discerning younger gentlemen into our Flagship store, we wanted to celebrate that heritage but express it in a way that would be modern and relevant to the next generation.
Chinese Olympic Equestrian and Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian explains:
‘At the age of 16 my father brought me to No.1 Savile Row to buy my first suit. He explained to me that it is the heritage and the quality that makes Gieves & Hawkes so special. When wearing their clothes you are following in the footsteps of great men and maintaining a tradition for understated British elegance’.
Eddie Wrey is a young filmmaker who worked for many years for Mario Testino. He recently shot the Gieves & Hawkes A/W 14 campaign in the Highlands of Scotland.
Continuing the brand’s association with Jaguar the film features the new F type coupe.
The film was shot on location at the Vesta rowing club, on the river Thames in London and in the recently renovated first floor VIP rooms of Gieves & Hawkes flagship store at No.1 Savile Row. On show in the Robert Gieves room is the Royal Archive featuring the uniforms for the Queen’s bodyguard - The Honorable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms - held at No.1 Savile Row since 1912.
The artwork above the original 1732 William Kent fireplace is by Fredikson Stallard.
The son in the film wears Gieves & Hawkes cashmere hoodie, suede bomber jacket, navy polo shirt, beige cotton trousers, beige suede shoes, leather driving gloves and changes into his made to measure Morning coat. He is dressed most likely for his wedding when morning coats are often traditionally worn in England.
The father wears ready to wear from the A/W 14 collection.