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SPRING / SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION

COASTAL REFLECTION

For S/S 2015, Gieves & Hawkes evokes the colours and memories of an English summer on the coast - soft and elegant, windswept and natural - presented with monochromatic and luxurious understatement.

The Gieves & Hawkes gentleman of today is dressed in tones of ocean and marine blue, shades of grey, sand, aqua and teal. Suits are subtle in texture and softer in shape and tone. Monochromatic summer tweeds are re-imagined in sophisticated wool/silk yarns, dressed down with knitwear or a t-shirt. Tailored greys are complex, the paler shades blended with sand and ivory, the darker twisted with navy to add a graphic and modern edge. With a nod to the history of the house, blazers are updated in softly tonal boating stripes. The trench is in stone ‘storm system’ wool/silk.

Eveningwear is hand-made in Britain. Tailored Irish linen dinner suits with covered buttons are in cream and driftwood grey. Silk/cotton jacquards are in discrete ivory or pale blue micro dots bringing a sophisticated newness. Styling highlights feature tonal dress shirts, knitted ties and linen scarves.

Casualwear is anchored in Savile Row precision. Outerwear features strongly with seam-sealed and weatherproofed peacoats and duffle-macs in teal and navy, a tailored waxed cotton parka in aqua and a motorcycle jacket re-imagined in soft sky blue suede. Nubuck feels casually luxurious in a teal jean jacket. More relaxed is an anthracite performance silk parka, worn with a striped linen t-shirt in tobacco.

Made in England knitwear features marls, piqué and bubble knit in exclusive silk, linen and cotton yarns, with fine gauge silk/cashmere for chilly evenings. The occasional nautical stripe echoes the coastal direction.

Made in England knitwear features marls, piqué and bubble knit in exclusive silk, linen and cotton yarns, with fine gauge silk/cashmere for chilly evenings. The occasional nautical stripe echoes the coastal direction.

A new softer soled loafer, grey chukka boots, suede espadrille loafers, pale green crocodile lace-ups and double monk straps in white, driftwood and navy suede complete the summer wardrobe.

Latest events

BESPOKE SHOWCASE AT THE GREAT FESTIVAL OF CREATIVITY

SHANGHAI LONG MUSEUM I 4TH MARCH 2015

At the Great festival, Shanghai tailors to the British Royal family, Gieves & Hawkes, will be moving the cutting room of No.1 Savile Row, London to Shanghai for one day only, March 4, to showcase the unique craftsmanship of bespoke tailoring.

‘For me the experienced bespoke cutter at Savile Row is like the master of jade carving in Asia. It’s a highly skill based role, requiring both craftsmanship and artistry. Every item of bespoke clothing is hand-made in the bespoke workshops at No.1 Savile Row to present sartorial elegance at its very finest’ Head Cutter, No.1 Savile row

At the GREAT festival Mr Lawson will cut a new tailcoat for Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian. Eton-educated Hua Tian is a Chinese Olympic equestrian who recently won Silver Medal at the Asian games. His Team China tailcoats are made to order at No.1 Savile Row. Mr Lawson will also prepare a suit made from one of the rarest and most expensive fabrics in the world for a fitting with a Chinese customer.

Gieves & Hawkes have been making bespoke clothing for international royalty, heads of state and men of distinction for over 200 years. The skills of the master craftsman are passed down from generation to generation, coupled with a love and respect for the art of tailoring.

Today Gieves & Hawkes holds all three Royal Warrants and proudly dresses three generations of the British Royal family, continuing the firm’s uninterrupted service to the British monarchy stretching back to 1799. No.1 Savile Row has been the Flagship store since 1912.

New York Bespoke Appointments

The Directors of Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce that Davide Taub, Head Bespoke Cutter from No.1 Savile Row, will be available in New York for Bespoke fittings, by appointment, on Wednesday 25th, Thursday 26th and Friday 27th of February at the Mark Madison Avenue at 77th Street.

To book an appointment please email jolyonbexon@gievesandhawkes.com or call +44(0) 203 102 6162

Discover more about Bespoke.


PROGRESSION

For Autumn Winter 2015 Gieves & Hawkes moves back into the city with a broad and darkly layered urban wardrobe. Richly structured with a film noir quality, the palette is saturated and textural in charcoal, black, ink, plum and navy. The tone is mat with flashes of sheen.

The look is masculine and powerful, centred around outerwear and overcoats. Softer shapes and sumptuous textures in cashmere and double faced wool are trimmed with mink and dressed with Astrakhan.

For day the suit is elegantly broken, tonally mismatched in micro patterns of textured yarns in cashmere, silk and wool. Colour is moody and mixed up with the flash of a silk scarf or tie. Dress shoes are hand burnished dark maroon and navy over black. The attaché case is in plum crocodile.

The weekend is urban and dressed up in dark indigo and air force grey. Heavy cashmere knitwear is paired with a grey Nubuck bomber or a soft tonal Prince of Wales overcoat and grey crocodile lug soled shoes. The reefer is in aubergine cashmere, the pea coat in shearling.

Eveningwear is subverted with oversized herringbones and Prince of Wales checks morphing into rich shades of navy and claret worn with fine gauge knitwear or dark evening shirts. The formal coat is sharply tailored in dark burgundy Alpaca and black pony skin.


No.1 SAVILE ROW

As part of the ongoing elevation and evolution of the house, Gieves & Hawkes are delighted to announce the completion of the renovations of No.1 Savile Row and the launch of a new global flagship store.

With arguably the best address in the world of tailoring, No.1 Savile Row is an elegant eighteenth century William Kent townhouse and, since 1912, the flagship store of Gieves & Hawkes. Under one roof are showcased the Ready To Wear collections, Private Tailoring and Bespoke services alongside the military department and Royal archive. In grand suites of private rooms men of significance are welcomed with discretion and warmth.

Below stairs, master tailors cut and stitch bespoke suits by hand, as they have done for generations, for the most discerning gentlemen around the world.

Over the past twelve months, interior designer Teresa Hastings has worked with Chief Creative Officer Jason Basmajian to sensitively restore and modernise the interiors. The result is a design inspired by the bespoke traditions of precision, quality and beauty.

With a passion for the handcrafted, Teresa Hastings has introduced a palette of fumed oak, cast bronze, tailoring textures and fabricated metals to create an atmosphere of modern masculine luxury. Designs for new fittings and furniture have been hand drawn in pencil and pen and developed using a team of largely British craftsmen and makers.

As in fine tailoring, the luxury is in the detail with bronze and brass door handles hand cast using the lost-wax technique.At the centre of the store is the famous Map room, added by the Royal Geographic Society in 1871, restored to its former splendour.


G&H Vitale Barberis Canonico Gala Dinner

In the illustrious setting of No. 1 Savile Row, key figures from the international menswear sphere, journalists and friends of the brand joined the directors of Vitale Barberis Canonico, Italy's oldest woollen mill, to celebrate the refurbishment of Gieves & Hawkes’s flagship store and a new collaboration between the two Houses.

The black tie dinner continued late into the night in a mood of sartorial celebration. Among the distinguished guests were Lord & Lady West of Spithead, Lord & Lady Davies of Abersoch, Francesco Barberis Canonico, Julie de Libran, Yue-Sai Kan, international journalists and tastemakers. Before sitting down to a lavish dinner, guests enjoyed the award-winning Nyetimber Classic Cuvee and wines selected especially for the evening from Berry Bros.& Rudd. Sr. Francesco Barberis Canonico announced a very special opportunity - a personal invitation to any G&H clients choosing a VBC fabric to visit the mill in Italy and tour their archive.

GIEVES & HAWKES PRESENT SPRING / SUMMER 2015

Continuing the association between fine tailoring and modern art, Gieves & Hawkes moved the short distance from Christie’s to White Cube in St James’s, London to present Spring / Summer 2015.

Thirty five models, still like living sculptures, dramatically lit and perfectly attired, presented the ideal wardrobe for any summer occasion, from boardroom to beach. The mood was softer and the ambiance more relaxed, in shades of grey, driftwood, azur and teal.

There to admire were the international fashion press and friends of the creative director, Jason Basmajian, including David Gandy, Aidan Shaw and Jack Guinness.

Representing the new face of Gieves & Hawkes were the dapper Jake Parkinson-Smith wearing pale blue G&H seersucker, Mr Lawrence Clarke immaculate in a pale grey 3 piece from S/S 15 and Chinese Olympian Alex Hua Tian, fresh from competing that morning.

Buyers from the finest stores around the world including Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue enjoyed Cuvée Classic from award-winning British vineyard, Nyetimber. Images and a glowing report of the night went straight up on style.com.

The invention of the English gentleman

Savile Row is the world’s most iconic address for the best in bespoke tailoring and home to legendary Gieves & Hawkes – suppliers to the British military for more than two centuries and furnishers to elegant gentlemen today.

The company began by designing attire for Britain’s most illustrious officers, including Admiral Lord Nelson and the Duke of Wellington, as well as ten generations of British Royalty, from King George III in 1809 to Princes William and Harry today.

As masculine attire evolved after World War I, Gieves & Hawkes added civilian clothing to its repertoire, applying centuries of expertise in creating hand-made garments – proportion, cutting, fitting, and quality fabrics – to the finest bespoke tailoring.

This volume traces the rich history of tailoring, drawing from Gieves & Hawkes’ vast, unpublished archives of client ledgers, garments and ready-to-wear collections; this is an indispensable book on classic men’s style and fine tailoring.

Available in store at No.1 Savile Row. RRP £60

GIEVES & HAWKES STYLE AT CHRISTIE’S NOBLE & EUROPEAN COLLECTIONS

Following the success of Gieves & Hawkes A/W 2014 fashion show held at Christies galleries last January the two houses came together again last week in a unique collaboration in celebration of the Noble House & European Collections sale. Christies asked Gieves & Hawkes to bring their unique point of view to the private view and to work with them on bringing a modern and stylish approach to the presentation of the exquisite heritage pieces on sale. Three vignettes featuring military lots from both houses set the tone. The presentation was graphic and precise on a dark grey background, the lighting dramatic and the atmosphere in the room stylish and modern echoing the newly refurbished No 1 Savile Row. Admirals and aristocrats mixed with international fashion, style and business leaders in celebration of the craftsmanship and beauty on show.

Film Library

HOW TO DRESS IN 90 SECONDS

The new film sees the setting updated to a triple height mews house in SW7, and Jake Parkinson Smith, the grandson of iconic British photographer Norman Parkinson, taking on the leading role.

Says Jason Basmajian, Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes:

‘Someone sent me a link to the original film which was a 50’s public service broadcast on how a gentleman should order his wardrobe - and I loved it. We then discovered from our archivist that the Duke of Bedford had been a good customer of ours at the time and that his wardrobe would have been largely from Gieves. At that point we thought it merited attention and a loosely inspired modern remake.’

In the film, directed by Eddie Wrey, Jake shows the modern man how to get out the door in 90 seconds flat. The film features the new Autumn Winter hand-tailored in Britain collection of ready to wear exclusively available at No.1 Savile Row with the new Jaguar F Type making a cameo appearance.

Property provided by 88ltd, with a special thanks to Panos Koutsogiannakis.

88ltd.com

ON DUTY

Jason Basmajian, Creative Director:

‘In business since 1771, we have many customers from families that have been shopping at Gieves & Hawkes, No.1 Savile Row for generations. A father brings his son to buy his first suit for an important birthday, school social events or graduation. People that have shopped with us for generations trust the impeccable taste and guidance of the staff at No.1 Savile Row. Today as we welcome more and more discerning younger gentlemen into our Flagship store, we wanted to celebrate that heritage but express it in a way that would be modern and relevant to the next generation.

Chinese Olympic Equestrian and Gieves & Hawkes ambassador, Alex Hua Tian explains:

‘At the age of 16 my father brought me to No.1 Savile Row to buy my first suit. He explained to me that it is the heritage and the quality that makes Gieves & Hawkes so special. When wearing their clothes you are following in the footsteps of great men and maintaining a tradition for understated British elegance’.

Eddie Wrey is a young filmmaker who worked for many years for Mario Testino. He recently shot the Gieves & Hawkes A/W 14 campaign in the Highlands of Scotland.

Continuing the brand’s association with Jaguar the film features the new F type coupe.

The film was shot on location at the Vesta rowing club, on the river Thames in London and in the recently renovated first floor VIP rooms of Gieves & Hawkes flagship store at No.1 Savile Row. On show in the Robert Gieves room is the Royal Archive featuring the uniforms for the Queen’s bodyguard - The Honorable Corps of Gentlemen at Arms - held at No.1 Savile Row since 1912.

The artwork above the original 1732 William Kent fireplace is by Fredikson Stallard.

The son in the film wears Gieves & Hawkes cashmere hoodie, suede bomber jacket, navy polo shirt, beige cotton trousers, beige suede shoes, leather driving gloves and changes into his made to measure Morning coat. He is dressed most likely for his wedding when morning coats are often traditionally worn in England.

The father wears ready to wear from the A/W 14 collection.

TEAM

MR. JASON BASMAJIAN

Gieves & Hawkes welcomes its new creative director

February 2013 saw the appointment of famed menswear designer Jason Basmajian as creative director of Gieves & Hawkes.

Joining the venerable house from Brioni, Jason immediately set out his aims for Gieves in an interview with GQ magazine.

‘I came to work at Gieves because I wanted to be here in London at such an exciting time. British style has come full circle back to where it all started - the home of bespoke. Men have come back to tailoring and Savile Row is not only where it all started, but where this revival is happening once again.’ – GQ Online

Jason Basmajian brings over two decades experience as a creative manager of major international clothing brands. He was Director of Menswear at Calvin Klein from 1994-99, and held the same post at Donna Karan in New York from 1999-2002, after which he became Creative Director of ST Dupont in Paris. Subsequently he joined Brioni as Artistic Director. Whilst at Brioni he spearheaded the company’s modernisation and consolidation as one of the leading global luxury brands.

Jason Basmajian’s first collection for Gieves & Hawkes, Autumn/Winter 2013 was presented at the Gieves & Hawkes press day at the Connaught, whilst Spring/Summer 2014 was  presented as part of London Collections: Men on Sunday 16 June.

MR. JOLYON BEXON

Store Manager at Number 1. Savile Row

Name: Jolyon Bexon.

Hometown: Maidstone, Kent.

What do you do at Gieves & Hawkes: I am the General Manager of No 1 Savile Row.

Background: I started my interest in tailoring at Art College and continued this into a BA Womenswear Design course. Instead of the design side of the industry I became attracted to the business side and moved into a career in retail which centred around men's tailoring. I found I had a greater passion for menswear mainly because I got to enjoy the clothing I was selling and this gave me a greater ability to connect with the clients with whom I worked.

Personal style: I like understated elegance and subtle details. I don't like to stick out in a crowd because of a bold print or bright colour. My focus is very much on the cut and the detail of the cloth.
I believe you should wear the clothes and not the other way round..

How did I come to work at Savile Row? In 2011 I was asked to join the store to look after the ready to wear collection. Since then I have taken on the responsibility for the Private Tailoring and Bespoke departments.
To be asked to join the company in 2010 was exciting but to now work at No.1 is an honour.

How is Gieves & Hawkes different from others on the Row? While our DNA is in bespoke tailoring, we now offer gentlemen a wide range of options for their wardrobe. We aim to offer an experience that is very different from other stores in London not just Savile Row, with hospitality, choice and expert advice in equal measure. Our business is about building long term relationships with customers often visiting the store for a sartorial catch up over a coffee or glass of whisky.

What would I recommend most about No 1 Savile Row? It is so difficult to pick just one service. I really do enjoy our Private Tailoring service though as it allows you to design a one-off jacket, suit or coat at a price that is only just above the ready to wear collection. It can become dangerous though as you are always thinking about what your next suit will be!

What do you wear on your day off? I usually pair smart with vintage, but always make sure my shoes are smart. I love clothing and style so a day off gives me the chance to add a bit more expression than when I am at work. I love our casual wear range especially the shirting and knitwear.

Any other hobbies? Visiting galleries like White Cube and markets around London with my wife and daughter is all we seem to do when not at work. I save as much as I can so twice a year we can travel abroad and see the world. Travelling especially in Asia is a big passion of mine.

Any interest/hobby outside of sartorial pursuits: I’ve just had a baby (or my wife has) so that’s my hobby. No need for anything else at the moment.

Advice: Find out what you have a passion for in life and make sure you're doing it. You have to ensure getting out of bed in the morning and working long hours doesn't feel like a struggle. The people you work with are just as important as the role itself so also make sure you have a good team around you.

Photographed by Khalil Musa

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